Last day in Bangkok
The bus drops Nina and I at Khao San Rd in Bangkok, the good ol’ backpacker central that starts to feel like home. We
head to the guest house where my Yellowknife friend Christa, which I’m really excited to hook up with, has made reservations for us. I talk to the clerk and ask for the room. He tells me that there is no reservation at my name. I insist that my friend has booked something for us earlier in the day. He says: “no, she didn’t.” So I look down on his sheet and I say: “Yes she did and there’s my name on your sheet with a line across it!” And the clerk replies: “Yes we cancelled it because we didn’t know at what time you arrive and we can’t hold rooms.” And me to reply: “Well what’s the point of booking in this case?”. Nina and I take our packs and go to the next guest house across the street where we find decent accommodation. After freshening up, we go meet Christa. Ohhh Christa!! Like a breath of fresh air, Christa is amazed by everything she sees and touch! It’s her first few days in Asia and everything is a fascination for her!
So the 3 of us spend the next couple of days exploring the ol’ Bangkok, checking markets and vegetarian restaurants, going out on ferry rides on the dirty river and risking our lives crossing eight lane boulevards. We explore a street market that specializes in lucky charms. Small statues of divine buddhist masters. But there is tables after tables, over maybe 2 kilometers people
were selling these mini buddhas made of clay, bronze, iron, stone and what not. I buy a pair or Roh Bon
sunglasses for maybe $0.50 (my last 2 pairs of fake Ray Ban had shattered on the curb) and I acquire an ancient swiss clock built in a glass sphere (I love clocks). Bangkok is so big, that I can’t imagine building inspectors (if there are any) catching up with all the strange buildings. We walk in some kind of indoor market with extremely narrow lanes with rough planks over mud to walk on. The merchants are selling fancier lucky charms, kept under glass. As we get deeper in this maze, the floor gets really degraded to the point where it looks like plane filth and junk but as we progress, we find some actually
quite nice restaurants right on the side of the river and also an ice-cream bar… I am now expecting a big pile of junk or a dead end, but no, it keeps on going and loops back to a nice food market also selling clothes. We have a nice time back at Kao San Road as we try to find a travelers hat for Nina and we head for drinks at the Gypsie Lips Bar.
It’s really nice to catch up with my friend Christa, but the next morning, we say good bye and she gets on a bus to go to Chiang Mai, further north in Thailand, to take some thai massage training and do some yoga. Nina is also getting on a bus, she is headed to the Cambodia border. She will cross Cambodia to go to Viet Nam and maybe go to Laos. I’m sad to see her go as we shared a lot in the last two weeks. As for me well, I’m taking a train to Bangkok International Airport. I have a flight to Yangon (Rangoon), the old capital of Myanmar.
Yangoon
There ‘s quite a bit to say about Myanmar (Burma) and one needs to be informed about its political history to understand it, but let’s start by saying that it’s a pretty mysterious country and that things are changing very rapidly over here, communication with the exterior world is under strict censorship so it’s quite hard to know what to expect when arriving in this country. But I have a lonely planet guide (a 2011 edition photocopy book I bought in Bangkok). I read a bit through it and I’m vaguely planning to go from Yangon to Baghan, from Bagan to Inle Lake, and on the way figure out where else to go as I meet travelers.

Mes nouveaux compagnons de voyage: à gauche avec le chandail rouge, Vincent dit Soussoune, à l'avant avec le chandail blanc, voici la charmante Manoue; à l'arrière avec le chandail kaki, c'est Manu; juste à droite c'est la femme de Manu, sont nom est Maeva; et puis complètement à droite, c'est Marie, la partenaire de Vincent.
So I land in Yangon. I’m getting approached by cab drivers who want to take me to the heart of the city. I look for other travelers, Its always cheaper to share rides. So I hear a group of backpackers speaking french. They are haggling to get cheaper rates on a taxi ride to the Sule Pagoda, the corner stone of the old city. I introduce myself and ask if I could share the ride. They look at the cab driver and say : We are 6 now, so it should be cheaper for each person!” We end up paying about 15$ to get to town. In the minivan, I get introduced to the group. They are from France. There is Manu, married to Maeva traveling for three months, there is Vincent “dit Soussoune” et sa compagne Marie, traveling around the world for 1 year there is Manoue.
After a good half hour ride, we get all right to Sule Pagoda, and the cabbie drops us off to the Mahabandoula Guest House. The review in the Lonely Planet says that it’s cheap, nothing more… Well it’s cheap all right, $12 dollars for a double room. It looks like shit, but it’s a bed. It’s past eight at night, we take 3 rooms. Next we’re in the street, hunting for a meal. First thing I notice is that men are wearing surangs. In fact they are not surangs but longyi. The surang is one long piece of fabric wrapped around the waist but the longyi, called paso for men, is like a tubular piece of fabric tightened by a knot on the belly. Every man here wears one. I must confess it’s the first time I find myself in a place where everyone wears traditional clothes. There are many man in the shadowy streets, but I only see a few women. Next I realize that it’s dark in Yangon. There’s not much street lighting, there’s no neon signs flashing in front of every bar. In fact I don’t see any bars at all. There is no Seven Eleven either. The streets
are filthy, some of the concrete slabs of the sidewalks are broken, exposing the sewers underneeth. At the corner of every street I find little tea shop set on the street with miniature plastic tables lit by candlelight and loads of Yangon people sitting on small plastic stools (kindergarden style) having tea and chatting. I’m walking with the guitalele strapped around my neck and it doesn’t take long to realize that it will be the best thing to carry around Myanmar. I’m following my new friends, I struming the strings, and I start to collect many smiles of burmese enjoying the small guitar.

Some old british colonial buildings scattered through town. The edge of the Sule Pagoda appears on the far right of the shot.
We walk into an indian restaurant and all the sudden start feeling like we are the tourist attraction in this place. People look at us with interest. A few elder folks at another table are looking at me and mimicking playing guitar. I remember what the Lonely Planet Guide said, “go talk to people, that’s the kind of tourist Myanmar needs”. Even though I only have a couple Myanmar words to say, the men seem quite please to interact with me and request a few notes on the guitalele which I gladly offer them. Looks like it will be easy to make friends in this country!
The next morning, we do what all tourists do on their first day in Myanmar, we look for money changers. Myanmar has been under sanctions from the United States since 2002 and indeed, there is absolutely no ATM machine in the country and it is impossible to use any credit card anywhere in the country. Tourists must bring all the money they need for their whole trip in American dollars. Pristine spanking new bills. We head for the market where, among many other things, we should find money changers. The market is packet with fabrics, lackerware, jewelry, clothes, food and so on. I notice for once how beautiful Myanmar women are with their happy smile and this Thanaka yellow powder that they put on their cheeks to protect their skin from the burning sun. We find several money changers offering us a rate of 810 kyats (per dollar) for $100 bills, 800 kyats for $50 bills, and 790 kyats for any other smaller bills. One of my $100 was rejected because it had a crease in the middle and therefore got me only 800 kyats. This was much less than the 1200 kyats per dollars that the lonely planet was talking about. I still end up with a big pile of money that I stash in my bag.
I’m still following the french crew (why not?) and they offer me to tag alone with them to go to Kalaw and do a trek to Inle Lake. Trekking sounds good to me and I do want to see Inle Lake so I agree to go with them. All right, looks like I have new travel partners! We look for bus tickets to go to Kalaw and can’t find any. Since the french troop don’t want to stick too long in Yangon, there’s a change of plan
to go to Bagan, followed by Mandalay and then Kalaw. I too want to get out of Yangon sooner than later so I get a ticket to be on the same bus as them. We’re schedule to leave the next day so we head to the Shwedagon Pagoda which seems to be the number one attraction in Myanmar.
The Shwedagon Pagoda
A pagoda is the english name for a Stupa, which is usually built upon sacred relics. The Shwedagon Pagoda is said the be keeping some hair from the last Buddha. This epic monument is actually covered with real gold! As it turned out, my friends and I went to the Pagoda on the full moon night of it’s 2600th anniversary (altough archeologists say it was built between 6th and 10th century), lets just say it was Buddha’s birthday. This might be the busiest day in the whole existence of this pagoda (or maybe not)! But it’s the most sacred place I’ve ever been to. I walk around and I see golden Buddhas every where with people making offerings and praying, and groups of monks wandering, and schools singing prayer, endless celebration of the Dharma on this holy day! I am flabbergasted! So many people came from all over the country to be here at this moment and I just happen to be here without any planning for it. Well I could go on and on about it but I’ll trust a few pictures here.
After several hours at the Pagoda, the night was well settled so my new friends and I head back to the streets to get some food, and make our way to the Guest House. But on the way, I cross a stand selling t-shirts of Aung Ann Suu Kuy and the General Aung Ann. It is a National League For Democracy (NLD) stand. I am a bit surprise to see this as I thought it was illegal to openly display partisannery for the Lady and the NLD. So I walk in the stand and ask some questions to figure out that things have changed a lot in Myanmar, that there is by-election coming up, and that the NLD intends to win it with Aung Ann Suu Kuy as it’s leader. Wow!! I was really outdated in my Myanmar actuality but this political face off triggers much fascination in my mind and I can’t wait to learn more about it.
Well that’s it for my first few days in Myanmar. Yangon is now far behind and I’m ridding a bus direction Bagan.
All the best,
Alex





























































































